Leather shoes can be a worthwhile investment due to their durability and timeless style. However, their lifespan varies significantly based on how well they are cared for.
While some people might find their leather shoes lasting only a year, with proper maintenance, a high-quality pair can last for several years, often getting better looking with age.
Taking care of leather shoes requires a few supplies: a shoe brush, leather cleaner, conditioner, polish, and a soft cloth. You might also want shoe trees to help maintain their shape and prevent creasing.
The best part is, you don't have to spend a lot. For less than $100, you can get everything you need to keep your leather shoes clean and shiny.
If you usually rely on a local shoe-shine stand for basic shoe care but want to start doing it yourself, whether for fun or to save money, this guide is perfect for you. It will provide the necessary information on the products you'll need to create your shoe-care kit.
On the other hand, if you already have a shoe-shine routine but aren't satisfied with the results, this guide will also be valuable. It can introduce you to products that might give you better outcomes.
What You’ll Need
In keeping your leather shoes clean and fresh, you will need some appropriate tools to work with. For normal leather shoes, these are the best:
- A horsehair shoe brush to get out dirt: This should pretty much be the first item you add to your cart. It is an essential tool for removing dirt and dust from your shoes and for buffing in polishes and other products like conditioner and creams into your shoes.
While shoe-shine brushes can be crafted from various exotic materials, horsehair remains widely recognized as the optimal bristle material for shining and cleaning shoes.
The brush must be sufficiently sized to make sure it is easy to use and a comfortable grip, avoiding any tediousness or difficulty during the brushing process.
You could also cut up an old T-shirt into long strips and use this for buffing. I got this tip from a professional shoe shiner a while back..
If you do this, you must use a different rag for each product so they don’t end up cross-contaminating each other. What I do is use a permanent marker to label each rag with what it is for so I don’t forget.
- Saddle soap: Although you could use a generic brand of soap and clean water to remove dirt and clear stains off your leather shoes, they are not usually good at attacking and removing scuff marks or tougher stains. This is where saddle soaps come in. They are specially designed to remove these stains from leather material.
- Cream polish for shining your shoes and enhancing their colour: Shoe polish is needed to enhance the appearance of your shoes during maintenance.
It's essentially a blend of dye, oils, and waxes that effectively covers up minor scratches and cracks while restoring colour and shine.
- Leather conditioner: A leather conditioner keeps your shoes' leather strong and resilient against the elements. Dry leather becomes brittle, reducing its waterproof and breathable qualities. Similar to skin, dry leather feels a bit rough—running your finger along the shoe can help you determine if it needs conditioning.
Besides feeling unpleasant, dry leather isn't a good surface for developing a polished shine so you need a conditioner to prevent that.
- Leather Cleaner: A leather cleaner removes dust and any other substances that could get trapped under the polish and damage the leather. It also prepares the leather's surface to accept moisturizer and polish by stripping away excess oils and old polish.
If your shoes look dull or you see flakes of polish in the creases, it's time to clean them with a solvent. Skipping this step reduces the leather's breathability, which can lead to rotting, and allows contaminated polish to harm your shoes.
- A dedicated towel to keep you clean when you’re cleaning
- Wooden shoe trees
- Wax polish
- Shoe protector spray to make your shoes resistant to dirt and rain
- A soft cloth
Simple Basics for Caring For Your Leather Shoes
- Storage: Storing your shoes the right way is key to making them last longer. If they get wet, stuff them with newspaper overnight and let them dry naturally. It's also a good idea to invest in some gear to keep them looking new.
The most important thing you can do to keep your shoes in good shape and looking great is to use shoe trees. Pick high-quality cedar shoe trees—they smell nice and have natural germ-fighting properties. They soak up moisture and stop your shoes from getting that crumpled and turned-up toe look.
Chances are, your shoes probably came with a shoe bag. If you wear your shoes often, like at least once a week, keeping them in the bag isn't necessary but, if you have shoes you wear less often, or if you're storing them away for a while, using the shoe bag (along with shoe trees) can help protect them from dust.
If you don't have a shoe bag, a canvas tote bag works well too. Just avoid using plastic bags like Ziplocs—they don't let the shoes breathe and can lead to mould growth. Suede shoes should be kept in the open air, but make sure they're away from direct sunlight.
- Wearing them: Whenever you are putting on your shoes, try to always use a shoe horn. Don’t force your feet into the shoes, as this can damage the heel counter, which gives structure to the shoe and supports your heel.
It's best to have at least two pairs of shoes to rotate. This allows each pair to fully dry between wears, helping them last longer. Leather needs to breathe, similar to your skin, so alternating shoes daily prevents wearing the same pair every day.
Since your feet sweat throughout the day, the leather absorbs moisture. Damp leather is more likely to stretch, scuff, crease, and stain. By wearing each pair every other day, you give them enough time to dry, significantly extending their lifespan.
Besides how you put on your shoes or how frequently you wear them, you need to also consider when you wear them. When the weather is bad, be extra careful with your shoes.
On particularly wet days, it's best to avoid wearing your leather shoes outside. Water can stain even waterproof leather and once leather gets wet, it absorbs more water, making it swell and darken, and as it dries, it can lose essential oils, leading to brittleness and cracking.
Try not to wear leather shoes in heavy rain or on salt- and snow-covered sidewalks., and wet leather soles are more easily damaged by rough surfaces like concrete.
If you know you'll be out in the rain or snow, use goloshes to protect your shoes. Keep a pair at home and in your car just in case.
If your shoes do get wet, don't dry them near a radiator or window, as heat and sunlight can cause cracking and damage. Instead, let them air dry naturally with shoe trees inside for a couple of days.
How To Clean Your Leather Shoes Like A Pro
Before you start, lay down sheets of newspaper or a towel on your work surface to make cleaning up easier and to protect the area from damage. Once you’ve done that, follow these steps:
- Get your shoes ready: After that, remove the laces from your shoes to keep them dry and clean. If the laces are dirty, give them a wash or replace them with a fresh pair. Then, grab a shoe brush and gently sweep away any dirt, mud, or salt from the leather surfaces.
Take care to inspect for scuffs and scrapes, avoiding further damage. Regular cleaning makes polishing your shoes later on much easier.
- Clean Your Shoes With Soap: Lightly dampen a cloth or brush with the soap solution, making sure it's not too wet to avoid saturating the leather.
Gently scrub the surface of your shoes with a damp cloth or brush. Focus on areas with stains or dirt buildup, using small, circular motions. You can also let the soap solution sit on the stain for a few minutes before scrubbing again.
- Shine With Polish: Opt for a clear polish or one that closely matches the color of your shoes. This ensures a natural-looking finish. You'll also need a fresh, soft cloth for application.
Start with a small amount of polish. It's always better to add more later if needed, than risk using too much initially. Dab a small amount of polish onto your soft cloth. Use circular motions to apply the polish onto the entire surface of the shoe.
Once the polish is applied, allow it to soak for a few minutes. Then, use a new clean, soft cloth or a buffing brush to shine the shoe with short, steady swipes. Let the polish dry completely before buffing the shoes again with a clean, dry cloth for a shiny finish.
